Angel's Flight

JetBlue

2010-03-14T01:49:00.003+08:00

For me, JetBlue sets the benchmark for American budget airlines. Reasonable airfare, free checked baggage (for the 1st bag), free snack & drink and a free personal in-flight entertainment provided by DirectTV & XM radio. Headphones are available for a fee. This caused some grumbling amongst some passengers. Luckily for me, iPhone headphones plug right into the seat. My 22" Victorinox Mobilizer (remember traveling for business) fight overhead like a glove. The service was courteous and prompt. Flight was on time as were the others leaving from Long Beach that morning. There is a lack of constant solicitation (in flight) which is prevalent on budget flights within Europe & Asia. Good thing that hasn't caught on in the American airline industry yet!

Long Beach Airport

2010-03-13T01:04:00.004+08:00

I'm sitting here at the Long Beach Airport waiting to catch a flight to Austin for South by Southwest. This is only the second time I've flown out of here but it's hard to resist such a small airport. Both the JetBlue ticket line and the TSA checkpoint were a breeze and seamless. Going carry-on, even for business is the way to go. I didn't even have to take my laptop out of its case and no problem going through the TSA metal detector. The airport is a little further from me than Burbank, but it much easier flying JetBlue to Austin than Southwest. No stops!!!! Armed with the Sprint Overdrive 3G/4G, I have instant wi-fi access here in the Airport.

Day 17--Out on the Town

2008-12-09T08:26:00.003+08:00

Dom & Melissa treated me to a great evening out with some of their friends tonight. We went to a trendy little spot named Tabac. Upon entering we were greeted by a bartender stationed behind a small bar in the narrow lobby. The bartender told us to push the phone in the classic phone booth next to the barif in order to enter the next room. Confused and under whelmed, Melissa pushed the phone. Just like a speak-easy, a dimly lit inner lounge was revealed! I could not believe how cool this was. The live DJ gave this place ahipster vibe. The music progressed from loungey to Top 40 to Electronica/Dance throughout the night. Melissa’s friends, Gwen and her husband were very nice people. Gwen is a local television personality. She hosts a travel show in Indonesia. Needless to say we had a lot in common. Tonight’s adventures proved to me that the best times are often had with friends. There is no way I would have ever discovered Tabac on my own. I’m lucky to have friends in Jakarta to show me the city from a localpoint of view. Making new friends is the cherry on top.

Day 17--Jakarta: The Big Durian

2008-12-09T00:27:00.015+08:00

Today I ventured on the new Trans-Jakarta bus and zipped across town to the historic and colonial Kota area, otherwise known as Batavia. I boarded the bus at the hectic Blok M bus terminal. Surrounded by malls and street vendors, I was happy someone pointed the way to my bus stop. It's really not so much a bus stop as it is a corral for cattle. The efficient TJ buses are elevated and stop at specific bus terminals high above the ground. They drive in a designated bus lane that allows them to bypass all of Jakarta's infamous traffic. Needless to say, it's a cheap and easy way to get from one side of town to another. The route allows for a "do-it yourself" type "hop on-hop off" tour of the main sights in central Jakarta.
The Kota is the oldest part of Jakarta and was first settled by the Portuguese in 1522 and the expanded by the Dutch in the 17th century. This is not your average spic & span superficial historic center. It's run down shabby appearance is refreshing and part of the colonial ambiance of this area. The cobbled streets and builds look very much the same as they have for decades and centuries.
As I exited the bus station, I passed a gauntlet of bajaj and ojek drivers hawking for taxi rides. Some guys were just lying about or playing chess on the sidewalk. One man immediately caught my eye with his Osama bin Laden t-shirt. He offered me a ride but I politely declined. After striking up a quick conversation with me, he generously posed in front of his vehicle proudly showing off his t-shirt. To say that I was shocked wouldn’t put in perspective. I was sad, confused, slightly frightened, and shocked.
Discovering festivals along the road has become a running theme throughout my journey. Today, the Batavia festival was happening in Kota Square. All of the state run museums had displays and exhibitions set up in the square. The puppet museum that I was planning on visiting also had a booth on the square. Several school bands were performing and there were loads of schoolchildren filling the square. Upon spotting me, a group of schoolgirls modestly approached me to practice their English. Once I agreed to talk with them, they whipped out their cell phones to record our conversation and enthusiastically surrounded me. It was a great opportunity for a California guy like me to become an ambassador of my country and culture to Islamic schoolchildren. With their modest Muslim headdress their eyes gleamed as they fired off one question after another. Soon, the shy glances gave way to giggles of excitement at meeting a real live American. .
Café Batavia is located in the same square and lunch there was a bonified treat. The building itself is historic and the restaurant embodies the colonial past of Jakarta. The teak wood interior and photos of past luminaries transported me to another era! Several Dutch were visiting the café that day and the girls that I spoke to just loved the old photos of Queen Wilhelmina. The setting could easily substitute for Rick’s Bar in Casablanca. I was expecting Bogy to come down the large staircase Lunch was very affordable and the menu has a variety for everyone to enjoy. I had lunch in the lounge downstairs and explored the dinning room upstairs afterward

Day 17--Jakarta Airport

2008-12-03T01:17:00.002+08:00

As your traveling guinea pig, I decided to try a little experiment at the Jakarta airport. Visas are required for USA nationals and can be purchased upon arrival at the airport. So, what happens if you don't have any Indonesian rupiah, Japanese Yen, or even US Dollars? I decided to save the US Dollars I had for a rainy day and explained I didn't have any cash. The nice Muslim lady at the visa counter directed me to an ATM machine on the other side of immigration and instructed me (by showing me on a calculator) how much local money I needed to withdraw. The problem in this situation is that the ATM is on the other side of immigration. So, after talking with the immigration official he took my passport. Without showing any panic that I had surrendered my most valuable possession, I calmly walked to the ATM and withdrew a stack of money the size of a brick. With my heart pounding out of my chest, I approached the immigration official and asked for him to return my passport. To my surprise, he handed it over. I was expecting some sort of extortion scheme or to rot in an Indonesian prison for a while. With my passport in hand, I walked back to the visa station and purchased my visa. Then, I once again approached the amused immigration official to clear customs. In the end, things worked in my favor. The stress of wondering if my passport would be returned was not enjoyable. The moral of this story is to always have some US Dollars to purchase visas upon arrival.

Air Asia Review

2008-11-22T09:37:00.005+08:00

Air Asia is the no-frills airline that flies to a variety of destinations throughout South-East Asia. Among backpackers, it is the "go-to" airline for covering long distances at an incredible price. Like it's European counterparts, Air Asia does not have any cabin classes, no in-flight entertainment and food/snacks are available for purchase. Like certain airlines in the US, blankets and pillows are non-existent. Even without these amenities, the price is still right. Since I was on the last flight to Jakarta, my flight was virtually empty. I was traveling with carry-on baggage and opted to forgo the advanced seating option. This saved me any additional charges that are not included in the base fare.

I decided to sit in the exit seats for extra leg room. The air temperature became so cold mid-flight that I changed seats. Travel comfort items like my sleep sheet, therm-a-rest pillow and eye shades made this flight bearable. Not to mention the glorious invention known as the iPod. Overall, the flight was delayed enough that I wouldn't say it was on time. Lucky for me, the on-time performance is a non-issue for this flight. This is the first of two Air Asia flights I would be on this trip. I'm flying round-trip Bangkok-Jakarta and also Denpassar-Jakarta. Let's hope this inexpensive airline doesn't let me down.

Day 16--Homeless in Bangkok

2008-11-21T01:19:00.009+08:00

Today is a day of transition. I had all day to hang out in Bangkok before my flight to Jakarta tonight. After depositing my bags at the trusty and safe YHA Hostel in Silom, I headed down to the river. An early morning boat ride on the Chao Phraya River is one of the quintessential ways to see Bangkok. Not only is it a great way to escape the intense traffic of motorbikes, tuk-tuks and taxis, but a quick sail down the river is a cheap way to see some of Bangkok's important sights. The river has a long history with the development of the city. At one point, the capital was on the other side of the city in Thonburi. The King moved the capital to it's present location in 1782.

My first stop was to re-visit the massage school at the Wat Pho temple. This time I was going to splurge ($10 USD) for a one hour full body massage. I changed into some clothes provided and met my masseuse. After a quick prayer she began the massage. Thai massage involves a lot of stretching and bending in addition to massaging tension knots. It seems that the masseuse was concentrating on blood flow and circulation. After the massage was over I was completely relaxed and almost dizzy with a sense of calm.

My next stop for the day was the Wat Arun or Temple of the Dawn. I hopped on a ferry and crossed the river to explore one of Bangkok's most unique temples. It's an architectural masterpiece begun by Rama II and built in the Ayunthaya style. The intricate detail of ceramics and tile shaped into flowers is fascinating. The steps of the main part of the complex are steep but well worth the climb. The views of the city and the Palace were the best I've seen this whole week. Needless to say, it is a worthwhile climb for great picture opportunities.
The rest of my day was spent wandering the street markets of Silom that weave in and out of high-rises and 5th Avenue type shops. It really is a strange dichotomy to see a street vendor stall selling fake Prada sunglasses and knock-off Christian Audigier shirts in front of a Banana Republic.
I waited an hour for my airport express bus to show up and it never did. I hastily jumped in a taxi and headed for the airport. Including toll charges it cost me a whopping $7.65 USD to get to the airport.

Day 15--The Night Train to Bangkok

2008-11-11T18:18:00.003+08:00

This time I didn't have the luxury of a/c, but was in a 2nd class with fan sleeper. The faded green walls and slightly narrower seats were not a good sign of things to come. The multitude of spiders and cockroaches also added to the old world meets dumpy charm of this train. Thank goodness there were no windows on the train. The breeze added to the powerless fans trying to cool us down. We left during daylight and the Northern green countryside whizzed by my window. The sun began to set and the colours of the sky changed and the scenery around the train darkened. Beds were made around 8pm. Once my train arrived in Bangkok at 7am, I was glad to be back in the City of Angels.

Day 15--Leaving Chang Mai

2008-11-11T17:54:00.004+08:00

Roosters don't start crowing at the crack of dawn. They begin to crow well before dawn even breaks. Along with the symphony of crickets, frogs, and other jungle creatures, the sounds of nature were everywhere that night and morning. We bid a very sad farewell to our village family and made our way down the opposite side of the mountain to a river. This morning, we were going to raft down the river in traditional bamboo rafts. I was definiitely excited for the journey!

Duang once again volunteered me to drive one of the rafts. It was my own Huck Finn adventure come true. The intermittant rapids made the trip very entertaining. The journey was a real life "jungle cruise". There were calm and quiet moments followed by the thrill of small rapids. Once we approached the climax of our journey and the fastest rapids, everyone but Ben (the British kid) and I were escorted off the rafts. I unfortunately lost me steering pole in the big rapids because my guide made me sit down on my raft when I wanted to stay standing. After an hour and a half of our jungle cruise, we arrived out our mini-van for the ride back to Chang Mai.

Checking out of the Eagle House was sad for me. I really enjoyed Chang Mai and the helpful staff. The room I booked was large and had great a/c at a bargain price. With the free pick up at the train station, it was such a good deal. Duang offered to give me a ride back to the station in the afternoon after I was done taking one last walk around the city.

I walked around the old city and discovered an impromptu concert at a Wat. The locals welcomed me to observe the Thai classical instruments in action. The concert symbolized the artistic community that lives in Chang Mai. Soon, I made my way to the Wat Chang Mai. The Wat Chang Mai is the oldest temple in the city. I ignored the vendors of amulets and trinkets and just wandered around the complex. I had a great time observing the monks and gazing at the frescoes that depicted the Ramayana and the life of the lord Buddha.

On the recommendation of a local, I had lunch at a little stand across the street from the Chang Mai museum. It was a noodle soup dish with pork and fish balls in a warm broth. That is Thai comfort food for less than a Dollar. After wandering the city, I made my way back to the Eagle House for my ride back to the station. Duang had me jump on the back of his motorbike with my travel pack on my back. We zipped and zoomed through the city and before long, we arrived at the train station. Learning from last time, I knew I better grab some snacks and eat before the train. So, I went to the trusty 7-11 across the street for some snacks and then pulled up a chair in front of the 7-11. There was a street vendor selling some kind of spicy food and rice. After my meal, it was once again time to board another night train. This time I was returning to Bangkok.

Day 14--Village Life

2008-11-08T16:14:00.006+08:00

As we entered the Mae Hon village on elephants, the children of the village all came out to witness us clumsily dismount our beasts. I bid farewell to Hannibal and washed up for lunch. A delightful lunch of red curry, rice and vegetables was laid out in the middle of the village. The Mae Hon are a matriarchal society so the women do all of the bossing around. For lunch, the women ordered us around and seated us accordingly.

After dinner, we set out to do some chores around the village before dark. I was in charge of rebuilding a thatched roof that needed repair. The children of the village were a distraction as I looked down on them drawing and playing in the dirt. Before long, I went over to them to see what they were up to. I couldn't help teaching them some simple arithmetic and some kid's song and dances (like the macarena). The village matriarch scolded me for being so distracted from my roof building duties. I don't know if it was a punishment or a supposedly easier job, but I was sent to grind corn and then feed the pigs. Now, I'm a city slicker from Pasadena, California. Grinding corn, feeding pigs, and building thatched roofs is all a little out of the ordinary for me. It's only in the throws of a different culture that we can step outside ourselves and grow. Soon dusk was on the horizon and we had to prepare for bed. I, the lone and rogue ranger of the group, was moved into the chief's house. It was probably so he could keep an eye on me. With a small simple ceremony that involved fire, chanting, sacrificing a chicken, and drinking some village moonshine, the highlight of the evening was sitting around the fire with everyone. The broad smiles that came from the villagers faces will live with me for the rest of my days. Where they lack in material wealth, they make up for in spirit and kindness. Learning to appreciate local ways, customs, and ettiquette is an important life lesson.

Day 14--The Trek

2008-11-06T20:23:00.008+08:00

I had to rise with the roosters this morning because my trek was set to leave bright and early. In addition to myself, we picked up an Austrian couple and a family of four from the UK at a nearby guesthouse. This diverse group of strangers became quick friends on the one and a half hour drive southwest of Chang Mai to the Mae Hong Son area. The trek, as it was outlined by the outfitter, would involve trekking, elephant riding, bamboo water rafting and visiting three villages. Our guide, Duang, an Eagle House staffer, was from a Karen village and spoke the indigenous languages in addition to Thai. That day he wore a colorful shirt from his village that his sister had made. I think it was so we could easily spot him in the thick jungle.

The first jungle obstacle came in the form of a rickety bamboo suspension bridge several meters above a river. It seemed to be a left over prop from Indiana Jones. The bridge was so unstable, we had to cross it one at a time. As we made our way uphill, Duang whistled away and pointed out different flora along the way. He also picked herbs and bananas as we trekked behind him. Forty minutes into the ninety minute uphill hike, we approached a village woman coming down the hill. She was balancing a big basket of fruit on her head. Duang said she goes down to the market to the local market every morning and treks up in the evening. That was enough motivation for me to forget about fatigue and the 100% humidity. The vistas of pure jungle and surrounding hills were also a great pleasure.

Upon arriving at the Mae Hong Son village, we set our things down and Duang introduced us to our hosts for the evening. After the days activities, we were to return and spend the night in the village. From the Mae Hong village, we continued trekking to another village, the Karen. Each of these tribes and villages we were visiting was unique with distinct language, clothing, and customs. Some of these tribes have eventually migrated to Thailand from China, Burma, and Tibet. It was really a "National Geographic" special come to life. Again, Duang scored high marks with his translating abilities and putting up with my constant questions.

Since we had been hiking all day, the hike to the waterfall didn't strike me as anything special. The waterfall itself was impressive and overpowering. There were other small waterfalls around it that framed the main fall perfectly. Do to the strength of the current, we were not able to go in for a swim.

Shortly before lunch, my favorite part of the day took place: the elephant ride. When Duang asked who wanted to drive the elephant, I didn't hesitate to raise my hand. So, Duang and some locals were on one, I drove the elephant with the Austrians, and the British family were on 2 others. I named my elephant Hannibal because he was the biggest one of the lot. Riding an elephant on a basket strapped to it's back is one thing. I, as the elephant driver, had to sit on the head. I'm not as agile as the local Thais, so I decided to straddle the neck. Instead of using my feet for commands I used my hands to give Hannibal direction. Also, whenever we passed anu trees that might scrape me, I just tucked my legs behind his ears for protection. Hannibal had a mind of his own as he randomly stopped whenever he felt like to munch on bamboo and grass. There is no doubt that beast was controlling man in this case. Along the way, we passed several huts on stilts with people selling bananas. Every time Hannibal brought his trunk up to be fed, I was doused with a little bit of elephant slobber. Riding back to the Mae Honf village on Hannibal is one of the best experiences I've had to date. There is nothing like seeing the Thai jungle and the Burmese border in the fading distance than from the top of an elephant.

Day 13 PM--Really an Irish Pub?

2008-11-05T18:38:00.003+08:00

That evening, I decided to explore the low key nightlife vibe of Chang Mai. I started at the UN Irish Pub around the corner from the Eagle House. It has a fantastic patio setting, an Irish/English pub menu in addition to Thai food, and live music. The outside patio provided the perfect spot for some writing by candlelight over a beer. I never thought I would find myself in an Irish pub in Thailand. The best part of the evening came when a little girl who was selling peanuts came to sit next to me. I put down my pen and journal to tell her, "No Thanks". She was very interested to see what I was writing. Enough to pick up my pen and begin doodling in my book. Before long, she was humming and drawing herself a masterpiece. She then started practicing her handwriting and having me recite the letter she was practicing.

The "Rooftop Bar" just outside the city walls was the happening place that evening. A DJ was spinning electronica music and loads of people were chilling out on the "no-shoes allowed" veranda. The floodlight Doi Suthep monastery hovered in the distant hills much like the Cristo in Rio. Some people danced on the postage stamp size dancefloor next to the bar. I made a United Nations list of friends as I met guys from Sweeden, Nigeria, and girls from Ireland. As with many evenings like this, it's always fun to sit back and swap travel stories. Some of the questions are usually the same, but the answers are always different. One of the joys of traveling is meeting a vast array of people along the way.

Day 13--Chang Mai, Thailand

2008-11-04T20:47:00.005+08:00

Even though the train left only about twenty minutes late, I had every hope that it would arrive around the 6:15am as it was scheduled. Needless to say, as with most things in Thailand, the train system is an exercise in patience. My train was over three hours late. But, I was now in Chang Mai! I had mainly come to Thailand to explore the cultural capital of Chang Mai and use it as a base for trekking and exploring indigenous tribes. So even though my train was late and I could no longer set out on a trek that day (most treks leave at 9am), I was happy to be in a new location. The Eagle House had sent a driver to pick up the girls. I hopped in the back of the truck with them and I was off to new adventures.

The Eagle House Guesthouse is located in the the middle of the old city of Chang Mai where most guesthouses are located. It's certainly not as hectic as KSR! With it's old crumbling city walls, a moat, and dozens of temples at every corner, Chang Mai was looking like my kind of town. The number of tuk-tuk drivers soliciting a ride had diminished considerably. Better yet, the Eagle House offered a great room with a/c and a "big" shower for 290 Baht. There was still no division (not even a curtain) between toilet and shower but that was OK. Eagle House offered a variety of different treks and after some pondering over my breakfast of green curry and rice, I booked a two day trek set to leave tommorow morning. With that decision made, I had the whole day free to explore.

I walked to the bus stop to catch a bus to the Doi Suthep, the monastery that hovers high in the hills. By bus, I do mean the little red pick up trucks with campers and benches. Hiring one on my own was expensive so I waited until other travelers showed up. Before long, our little motley crue of Germans, Turkish, Japanese, and American held on tightly as our driver raced up the lush green mountains above Chang Mai.

The three hundred steps up to Chang Mai were slick due to the light rainfall that had just started. Going up the steps slowly gave me a chance to meditate as to why I was there and time to soak in the beauty. The Doi Suthep is a major pilgrimage sight for the Thais and legend has it that a white elephant died on the spot after searching out the location for a King. For me, it was a chance to re-focus and start a different phase of my trip. At this temple, I eventually learned more about Thai Buddhism than I had come to know before.

Once I reached the top, I was in luck to find a classical Thai dance performance with a live traditional orchestra playing in the background. It was nice to sit and watch the girl troupe in action as I took my shoes off to head inside the temple. The panorama views of the area were stunning to say the least. This real life working temple is filled with monks and visitors a like. The location, and inspiration it brings, is just the icing on top to most visitors.

Inside, I was greeted by an elderly monk clad in the traditional orange robes. He told me to sit still and repeat a mantra. I tried my best but I'm sure I butchered the whole thing. After some giggles, I focused and realised the mantra was only the pathway to what I was trying to teach me: Meditation. The elderly monk then sprinkled me with some kind of holy water and tied a white string around my wrist. I was very happy to receive the gift and it was very touching that my first souvenir in Thailand had deep meaning behind it. With a clear mind and a lighter heart, I made my way down the stairs to meet my group for the bumpy ride back to town.

Day 12 PM--The Night Train to Chang Mai

2008-11-02T19:38:00.004+08:00

Once I arrived at the train station, I was asked, "Where you go Mr.?" about 15 times. Interestingly enough, they all gave me the same answer: Track #5. Just like European train tickets, all of the relevant info is printed on the ticket. There is of course no big up-to-the-minute electronic arrivals/departures board. Thus, the need for friendly helpers.

Once on board my train, I was delighted that the only people on the whole train car were near my seats. I boarded early and soon my car would be full. The train car was not in "night sleeper" mode yet and the seats were all still down. Instead of several compartments, this car's seats were arranged with seats facing each other with an isle down the middle of the car. The pale blue paint and dark vinyl seats illuminated by fluorescent lights didn't look that crummy. It all just looked very faded than what I was used to in Europe. It was actually a bit nicer than I anticipated. Maybe I had just prepared for the worst and hoped for the best like I always do.

The attendants came by a couple of times to check if I wanted to order dinner of breakfast. The prices on the train were astronomical compared to Bangkok street food. I decided to stick with the variety of odd Thai snacks and fruit I picked around town. Dragonfruit, mango, an apple, durian chips, a strange dried mango with chili and peanuts, and a strange flavor of Pringles were on my menu tonight. The locals around me had limited English so I forced them to help me practice my Thai. I'm sure I looked like a nerd with my phrasebook in hand as I repeated certain phrases over and over and over and over...After a while I decided to explore and I made friends with two girls on the train (a German and Greek). The place they had booked was in my guidebook and since I hadn't booked anything yet, we made plans to meet up after the journey and make our way together to the guesthouse in Chang Mai.

After everyone had there dinner an attendant came by to fix out bunks. He did it with efficiency and swiftness. Once on my top bunk, I lathered myself with DEET and pushed all of the plastic wrapped bedding aside. I had my own sleeepsheet for just the occasion and better yet, I had treated it with Permethrine before I left. The only thing that separated me and the rest of the compartment was an ugly blue curtain. My bag was locked up on the luggage rack suspended from the ceiling. The a/c and fan combo made it somewhere between pleasant and not horrible. So with the sound of the train chugging its way North and a dark Thailand whizzing by my window, I decided to close my eyes and enjoy the train ride.

Day 12--Last Day in Bangkok

2008-11-02T18:43:00.006+08:00

Even though I was getting used to the fantastic a/c at the little Orchid Guesthouse, it was once again time for the familiar ritual of moisturizing with DEET in the morning, re-packing my travelpack, and checking out. Today, my first destination was the train station to purchase my tickets to Chang Mai. From there, I had no specific agenda but the day free to wander and explore more of Bangkok.

This morning, the train station was a beehive of activity. People, food, bags, taxi-drivers, and tuk-tuk touts all converged there. I quickly purchased my 2nd class a/c bottom sleeper to Chang Mai. I wasn't so lucky on the return and was forced to take a 2nd class fan top bunk coming back to Bangkok. My guidebook suggested that the bottom bunks were slightly larger, cooler, and had less fluorescent light beaming down on it. The price of my round-trip ticket was $41USD. Coming back to Bangkok, I was set to leave during daylight hours, which would allow me to get some views of the country side. Before heading to the Luggage Office, I secured my tickets in my money-belt and counted my change at the counter. I was starting to feel like a proper rugged traveler. To my disappointment, the Luggage Office didn't magically grow any secure bins or locked area since I had been there two days ago. I observed what the guys did with luggage once it was left and it wasn't secure. Even though I didn't have anything of great value in my bag, my bag itself is nice and I didn't want to spend money on a new wardrobe in case it was stolen. Since there was nothing to secure my bag to with my cable & lock, I felt leaving my bag in a pile with other bags on the floor wasn't the best idea. I had remembered the International Youth Hostel in Silom had a Left Luggage sign out front. That seemed like a better option. Also, it gave me a chance to head back to the skyscraper and shopping zone of Silom.

Fortunately, the youth hostel did have a luggage room and I could easily secure my bag to a post. It also didn't cost much either ($1USD). After wandering the markets in the back alleys of Silom, I wanted to jump on the Skytrain one more time and zoom through skyscrapers, high above the congestion and crowds. One interesting feature of the Silom area are the little monuments outside of each building. They are filled with flowers, incense, elephant statues, and Buddhas. The bigger the skyscraper, the more elaborate the monument.

I took the skytrain to the end of the line and found myself at the MBK Shopping Mall. Now, I'm not a shopping mall kind of guy, but overseas, they usually give me a perspective on local life and culture. This happens to be one of the biggest shopping malls in all of South-East Asia. It has 9 floors and you can buy anything here. The electronics and food floors were the most interesting. At first, it kind of looked like an American style mall. The content of the shops and the compact layout of the mall made it far different from any mall back home. Since I promised my friends in Jakarta we could go to a Premiere (VIP) Movie Theater, I passed up the opportunity to sit and watch a movie. With some time browsing, chatting with locals, and eating, I had enough mall time (but not enough a/c) and it was time to go back to the hostel and pick up my bag and go to the train station.

Day 11 Bangkok

2008-11-02T12:54:00.005+08:00

With the shock of the "clutter" and intense humidity of South East Asia behind me, it was time to hit the road for some sightseeing. One of the benefits of staying in the KSR area is its proximity to many of Bangkok's historic sights and temples. I can never sightsee on an empty stomach, so I visited my wonderful little lady on the corner for some breakfast. This time, I had spicy pork with basil, bamboo with chili, rice, and of course it was topped off with the ubiquitous fried egg. Just enough to get me going in the morning.

The Grand Palace and the Wat Phra Kaeo were the first on my list of places to visit. I can never resist visiting a palace when I travel to a country with a monarchy. Even though Thailand has a constitutional monarchy, the beloved King is ever present on billboards, posters, and in the minds and hearts of all Thai people that I have met. The oriental architecture of the Palace complex was intriguing and fascinating. I was in complete fascination with the gilded roofs and the Temple. The Temple, the Wat Phra Kaeo, houses the sacred Emerald Buddha. The Buddha is highly revered, small, and made out of Jade (not Emerald). Entrance into the Wat and Palace includes a 7-day pass to other Royal residences in Bangkok. Proper attire is a must and the que for rented clothing was long and mostly consisted of improperly dressed foreign women. Luckily, with long pants and a collard shirt, I passed the inspection. The Palace itself was closed and the Thai Royal Household and the Government are still mourning the loss of the Royal Princess (Sister of the King). Only those dressed in black could enter the mausoleum where her body is lying is state.

Since the Royal Palace complex is near the river, I decided to jump on a river boat and head to the Wat Pho which houses the popular reclining Buddha. River boats are frequent, cheap, and soon became my favorite method of transport in Bangkok. The reclining Buddha was very impressive. It's the largest gold reclining Buddha in Thailand and highly revered. The Lord Buddha's feet are intricately decorated with mother of pearl. The gold and the gravity of the Buddha made it the most impressive thing I had seen to date in Thailand. Since the Wat Pho houses a massage school, I couldn't resist going in for a proper Thai massage. The foot reflexology massage was unlike anything I had ever experienced. I can count on one hand how many professional massages I've had in the States but this well worth the $10 USD and a great way to relax from sightseeing.

Once again, I decided to brave the public bus system and headed back to the KSR area on bus #53. Again, I was the only foreigner and was the object of many stares. The natural air conditioning (no-windows, no doors) and the colorful locals were growing on me. After snacking on street food all day (for the last couple of day), it was time to go to a restaurant for a proper sit down meal. My first since Tokyo! I chose the neighborhood Israeli restaurant, The Chabad House. Truthfully, I felt like I was in a nice version of Jerry's Deli back on the West Side of Los Angeles. The atmosphere was welcoming and I was frankly the only non-Jew in the place. To break the ice, I sang a couple of bars of Bernstein's Chichester Psalms and soon the Rabbi invited me to sit with them for dinner. That evening I happily dined on chicken schnitzel, potatoes, and knosch on my plate. Oy vey was it a nice change of pace. My friends make fun of me for how much I like schnitzel in Europe, so it was comfort food to me. Some people go to McDonalds when they travel for a taste of home, I eat Schnitzel. The rest of the evening was spent making temporary friends in lounges and guesthouse patio hang-outs on the Soi (alley) where I was staying. With the parade of people, street vendors, and thumping music coming from different directions, the nitty gritty mean streets of Bangkok became my new playground.

Day 10--Bangkok

2008-10-29T16:09:00.004+08:00

After quickly checking out of my hotel and putting my bargaining skills to the test with the owner, I headed to the train station by jumping into a taxi. Taxi drivers in Bangkok will try to take your underwear if you let them, so I had to strongly urge my driver to turn the meter on. The train station in Bangkok is unlike anything I've ever seen. It makes the Bucharest train station seem like a VIP airport lounge. There were loads of people everywhere. Inexplicable, most of them were just sitting on the floor in the main hall just hanging out. The fine people at the tourist information booth helped me figure out that the next sleeper available wasn't until Monday. I investigated the VIP bus that goes to Chang Mai in 8 hrs, but sleeping on a bus wasn't going to cut it. I would have to wait till Monday for my sleeper to Chang Mai.

So with my travel pack still strapped to my back, I headed to the Silom area. The subway and skytrain I took there were clean, efficient, and such a contrast to the rest of Bangkok. It reminded me of the clean subway in Los Angeles. It's clean because hardly anyone uses it! The patrons were mostly middle-class Thais. After some banking and street-food, I headed back to the KSR area to find a place to stay. I was in luck because the bus I was on was free thanks to subsidies by His Majesty the King. Nothing gave me a feel for local life like riding on the public bus. It was dirty, crowded, and had no a/c. As the only foreigner on the bus and with my travel pack in tow, I was the conversation of the bus. Anyone who could speak English gladly asked, "Where are you from?"

Upon the recommendation of my guidebook, I checked into the Orchid Guesthouse just off KSR. The teak wood interior looked promising. After inspecting my room and the a/c, the $10.5 USD were going to be well spent. No more of this $9 nonsense. I was moving up in the world! The a/c in this room has been a gift from heaven and my room was twice as large as the last.

So with little time to sightsee left in the day, I quickly grabbed a bite to eat from the lady on the corner making some food in a stand. The Pad-Thai was tasty, cheap (.90), spicy, and made with lots of love. With a full and spicy stomach I made my way through the sea of Tuk-Tuks, food vendors, stray mangy dogs, and people to the Royal Palace area. The palace had closed but it was a fun walk from my guesthouse and I witnessed Thai big city life in action. Dozens of people lined the street either selling things, eating, or just plain lying down. I found myself in a section of town where nobody wanted to be my friend because they simply couldn't speak English. There were no "Hey Mister!" or Tuk-Tuk drivers to harass me. In a fluorescent lit local market I sat down and pointed to a spicy bowl of noodle soup, a fresh coconut, and enjoyed the flood lit palace next to me.

Day 9 PM--Arriving in Bangkok

2008-10-27T17:06:00.004+08:00

I arrived in Bangkok late last night from Tokyo. I had made a reservation from Tokyo over the Internet at a place just off Khao San Road (the backpacker ghetto) for about 9 $US. It was just for the one night until I could figure out what train I could catch to Chang Mai. Well, in the 1.5 days I've been here I've learned a lot about traveling in South East Asia.

The humidity hit me like a ton of bricks. Since I've grown up in a desert my whole life, any ounce of moister in the air is very noticeable. After clearing customs and making my way through the barrage of "Hey Mister, Taxi!", I headed to the airport express bus to buy a ticket to town. They run about every 20-3o minutes and stop in key locations across town. The a/c on the bus was a welcome relief.

With just about an hour and a half upon arrival, I was in the middle of the Khao San Road area. The KSR is notorious and legendary as the "backpacker ghetto". A lot has been said and written about this area. I found it to a homogeneous spread of banana pancake eating, tie-dyed, penny pinching backpackers. There is still no better place in Asia to get connected with other travellers and get in the swing of things. I was aiming to do just that and also explore the nearby Royal Palace and Wat Pho (Temple).

My hotel is located on a little Soi (alley) that runs parallel to KSR. Jack Spaun would have laughed upon arrival and called this place a dump. I reserved judgement until I saw the room. My room at the Sawasdee Smile Inn is about as wide as my arm's length. The bathroom is enough for me to touch everything all at once. The shower consist of a dingy plastic thing coming out of the wall. Who needs a shower wall or curtain or some kind of division from the toilet. The only thing I could think of is that I was happy Cathy was not there with me because she would have killed me for booking us into such a dumpy place. On the bright side, I now knew what $9 a night means in Thailand and the room did have a/c. It was now after midnight and had some business to take care of in the morning at the train station.

This was Bangkok and it was only the first nigh. I had yet to experience a full day here.

Japan Reflections

2008-10-27T16:50:00.003+08:00

Japan is one of the most clean and honest societies I have ever visited. I always felt safe and frankly never worried about petty theft. It took me a couple of days to internally let my guard down because there were no bands of gypsy children roaming the streets trying to rob me blind. I still never went to the ATM at night but the cleanliness of Japan also gives it an air of safety.

The tourist infrastructure in Japan is a blessing to travelers. There are several TI's at major tourist sights and neighborhoods and in the major train stations too. The big maps outside of stations, temples, and buildings were always helpful in directing people to their destination. Transportation was always easy, fast, and efficient. Nobody does mass transit like the Japanese!

The Japanese people are extremely polite and always willing to help. Even if they didn't know the answer, a Japanese person never said, "I don't know." They sometimes stood there politely in silence, sometimes bowing and often getting someone who maybe could help. The further away I ventured off the beaten path, the less English people spoke. To me, that makes travel much more exciting. I know I just grazed the surface by visiting Tokyo, Nikko and Kyoto, but I certainly got a nice flavor for Japanese society, philosophy, and religion.

As advised by friends and guidebooks 7-11's and Family Marts (Famima's) became stomping grounds for cheap eats, phone cards, and ATM's that take Non-Japanese cards. It was insight like this that made me feel more like a local than a traveler.

Day 9--Leaving on a Jet Plane

2008-10-27T16:41:00.003+08:00

Unfortunately, my time in Tokyo has come to an end. I have to leave the comforts of apartment life and my gracious host and partner in crime. It's now time to board another flight and slowly make my way to Bali via Thailand and Java. Goodbyes are never easy but the nights are always darkest before the dawn. I'm fortunate that I get to return to Tokyo and get more time with Cathy on my way back to Los Angeles.

Japan Airlines is now my second favorite airlines. The flight was on time and I was upgraded to a bulkhead seat with more leg room. The seats on JAL don't recline but slide back in their own cradle giving me a ton of leg room. Keeping in step with everything else Japanese, the design was functional and unique. The service, in flight entertainment, and food made the 6 hour flight to Bangkok fly by in a hurry. Before I knew it, I was in Bangkok getting ready to face a whole new adventure...

Day 8 Tokyo--Where do all of these People come from?

2008-10-27T16:15:00.005+08:00

Even though the day at Tokyo Disney Sea was a full one, I still wanted to go out for a night on the town. Shibuya crossing is like the Times Square of Tokyo and I wanted to bask in its neon glory. Since my JR pass was still valid, it wasn't going to cost me anything to take the trip across town. When I got there, I was mesmerized by the multitudes crossing the streets. The energy of Shibuya is so vibrant and it doesn't come from the neon. It's the activity of the crowds, whether there are crossing the street like a sea of ants or just strolling around. Where do all of these people come from? After some time of aimless wandering and discovering a few small old timey watering holes near the train tracks, it was time to head back to the apartment.

The next day was pretty low key since I had a lot of blogging to catch up on. It seemed like the only other area of Tokyo of interest to me was the Ginza neighborhood. Ginza is known as the shopping destination of Tokyo. Although I wasn't going to be buying anything at Christian Lacroix, the techno-geek in me wanted to visit the Sony building in Ginza. There was also a traditional Udon shop that I was interesting in trying.

The Sony building is a dream come true for lovers of technology and gadgets. Plenty of previews for new and upcoming products are displayed in addition to a myriad of cameras, computers, and video games. Nothing can bring two strangers together like a Playstation 3 and a huge Sony plasma tv. The Kabuki presentation was a complete surprise and the highlight of the visit. Since there was not a performance in town or in Kyoto, I felt like I was missing out. There were several floors in the Sony building dedicated to the art form displaying costumes, video clips, and instruments. The piece de resistance was the Kabuki Theater film presentation in the Sony Theater with high end digital sound and video was fabulous. I know it's not the same as attending a live performance, but for me and the Japanese in the audience, it was a nice flavor of a performance and very enjoyable. There were no subtitles but I certainly got the gist of it. Kabuki music and instruments are not on the Western scale so the singing sometimes sounded like screeching cats. However, the dancing, acting, and facial expressions were fantastic.

Day 6 & 7: The Disney Experience in Japan

2008-10-26T20:43:00.004+08:00

As an early birthday present, I was treated to a two-day pass to Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo Disney Sea by Cathy. I was looking forward to seeing her shows and having fun in the amusement parks. Besides, unlike my friend Adrian, I've only been to the parks in California. Instead of keeping up with the Jones', I'm keeping up with Disney fans. Also, everyone I know who has visited Tokyo Disney Sea, has just raved about it.

Tokyo Disneyland has to be one of the most crowded places I've ever been. It was very busy and rainy. My problem initially was with the covered "Main Street". How could they change one of Walt's original designs? Main Street just didn't have the same feel as it did in Anaheim. The day was very wet and some of the parades we wanted to see were canceled. The highlight of the day was Cathy's show in the Diamond Horseshoe Theater: Woody's Roundup. Spectacular entertainment for the whole family. Woody & Jesse flash their best jazz hands and how can you beat a cowboy wearing crooning blond hostess? Of the few rides I went on, the clear best was Pooh's Honey Hunt. The ride about the gluttonous fatty little bear and his merry band of friends was entertaining and worth the two hour wait. Overall, the Halloween atmosphere and the way the Japanese Disney employees carry out the "Disney attitude" made me reminisce about being back home. Tokyo Disneyland is certainly a Japanese version of a Disney park.

Tokyo Disney Sea is the best theme park I've ever been to in my life. It has the best rides, best amusement park shows, and overall best design. It is a gorgeous park and the weather couldn't have been lovelier. For the first time in Tokyo, the weather was fine enough for a t-shirt sans jacket or sweater. The spectacular parade, Mythica, blew me away and is the best water parade ever. It takes place in the scenic center lagoon and it seemed like the whole park came to witness the spectacle. Jules Verne would be proud because "Journey to the Center of the Earth" is just about the coolest ride on the planet. It speed and thrills were a pleasant surprise in a Disney park. Broadway came to Tokyo in Disney's "Big Band Beat" presented in the Broadway Theater. A full scale production with a live band, singing, dancing, show girls and a tap dancing Mickey Mouse. Just wandering around this park with it's flawless replicas of Arabian, Italian, and Early New York architecture was a complete joy. I'm truly grateful to have received such a cool early birthday present.

Kyoto Part III--Too many Temples, So little time...

2008-10-26T20:06:00.002+08:00

When traveling, it's often easy to have too much of a good thing. I always tell people, I never want to get to the point where I wouldn't want to cross the street for a Monet (or a Church facade). Kyoto has hundreds of temples and shrines in addition to its natural beauty and unique architecture. Since I dallied so much yesterday hanging out at the festival and stalking geisha, I had really only one day to make the most of my sightseeing time. By consulting my guidebook, I was able to pinpoint which Temples & Shrines were of interest to me. Therefore, I advise travelers to make travel as personal as possible. It's okay to get off the beaten path if your heart so desires. Also, in order to not get worn out, I've made it a personal rule to not visit more than three temples in a row. This helps each temple I do visit remain unique in my mind. After they all start looking the same, it's time to stop for a bowl of soba or some soft serve ice cream.

When visiting a sacred sight, I ask myself: Whey do I find this place special? How is this temple different from the others? Is there a particular design element in the architecture I find interesting?

Above all, I found that taking my time to experience the surroundings by strolling around or people watch is not only restful but enjoyable. The highlight of the day was the Path of Philosophy walk and the hike above the Nanzenji Oka-no in Shrine to a waterfall. Serene green beauty enhanced with the smell of burning incense and the sound of a rushing waterfall was well worth the climb uphill. I had great appreciation for the fall colors of red and yellow beginning to change as I explored the fantastic Eiken-do and Ginkaku-ji Temples. Before heading back to the train station, I hopped on a bus and headed across town to the Bamboo forest. The colors of the impending dusk made the dense bamboo forest come alive with streaks of light shining through it.

Since the Japanese are die hard fans for fall foliage in Kyoto, I didn't have the place to myself. Sometimes, I was lucky to find myself alone in a corner of a temple or shrine. If you are lucky to have any place to yourself while traveling, enjoy and relish in the solemn moment of rare mute solitude.

Kyoto--Three Sisters Inn Ryokan

2008-10-23T13:58:00.003+08:00

In the center of Kyoto, near the Heian Shrine, lies a little gem of a ryokan called the Three Sisters Inn. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn where tatami mat rooms and futons are the norm. After consulting my guidebook and other travelers, a nights stay in a ryokan was high on my Japan to-do list. There is certain protocol that goes along with stying in a ryokan. I'll give you some insight into my experience.

When I checked in, I left my shoes at the door and was taken up a steep narrow stairway and shown to my room. A simple tatami mat room with a TV and table made the small space look large. The low ceiling and low furniture gave an air of space to the room. I was told to set my bags down, given a yukata (traditional bath robe), a bathing time and then mama-san poured me some green tea.

After returning from my adventures in the Gion district, I headed upstairs to my room and changed into my yukata to get ready for bath time. I hung out in my room which overlooked the garden and then headed off to the bathroom for a bath. During my bath time, a futon was set up in my room and ready when I returned. Mama-san asked me what time I wanted breakfast and said to come downstairs at the scheduled time. The evening was spent lounging around in my room overlooking the garden and enjoying the atmosphere.

I turned up to the breakfast room in my yukata and prepared myself for my first Japanese style breakfast. Breakfast consisted of rice, miso soup, a small portion of teriyaki chicken, a small portion of scrambled eggs with spinach and soy sauce, seaweed salad, dried seaweed, pickled radishes and green tea. Although different than my average American breakfast it was very tasty. The calm atmosphere of the breakfast room next to the garden made the morning an enjoyable experience. I didn't look forward to checking out but I had barely grazed the surface of Kyoto's sights and wonders. It was time to move forward before my 5:30pm train back to Tokyo.

Kyoto Part II--Stalking Geisha

2008-10-22T22:50:00.005+08:00

The highlight of Day 5 was the time I spent in the Gion district of Kyoto. I did visit the Yasaka Shrine complex on the way and participate in all the praying, incense burning and bell ringing that goes along with that. Since I spent most of the evening in the midst of the Geisha, that is what I'm going to write about.

First, the Geisha in Kyoto are known as Geiko. A "junior" or "apprentice" or not fully fledged Geiko is known as a Meiko-san. The Gion district is the old historic quarte of Kyoto with old wooden merchant houses you probably recognise from postcards or "Memoirs of a Geisha". Whether or not talking pictures of Gieko and Meiko-san is PC is yet to be determined. You can be your own judge but I find it best to ask before snapping away like a paparrazzo. With that said, here are some hints on how to spot a real Geiko in Kyoto:

1. Go to the Gion district just before dusk and prepare to hang around till around after 8pm. This will ensure that you will see Geiko & Meiko-san shuffling off to some tea house.

2. Get off the main streets in Gion. The smaller the alley the better.

3. Listen for the following sounds:
a. Fast shuffling feet
b. Japanese gasping and saying "Meiko-san" "Geisha!"
c. The sounds of cameras going off.
d. If you hear a Japanese person refer to an older kimono wearing lady as "Mama-san". She is likely the "house-mother" of said Geiko and Maiko and they are probably not far away.

4. If you are lucky enough to spot one, don't let her out of your sight. Don't be clever and think you can cut her off through an alley. The elusive Geiko or Maiko-san will disappear like a thief in the the night.

5. After initially wandering, stay put if you spot one! I saw two Geiko and four Meiko-san on the same block. Patience is a virtue grasshopper!

Day Five--Kyoto Part I

2008-10-21T21:08:00.004+08:00

It was time to venture once again outside of Tokyo and head west to the culturally rich city of Kyoto. Famed for it's shrines, temples, natural beauty and of course the lure of the geisha, Kyoto is a must see on my whirlwind Japan trip. I had made reservations on the Shinkansen train (bullet train) when I activated my JR pass. Reservations are easy to make and if you have a JR pass they are free. A reservation can be key if you are traveling during peak time. Due to it's popularity during the fall for it's foliage, it was a wise decision for me to make a reservation.

After some quick business at the Tourist Information Office in the Kyoto Station, I stepped outside to the amphitheater surroundings of the station to find a concert in progress. Loads of people were seated on the stairs and listening to what seemed to be some kind of local orchestra. It was nice to know that the train station was alive with the sound of music. With a song in my heart, I quickly purchased a one day bus pass to get to my Ryokan and took bus #100 to the Heian Shrine (close to my Ryokan).

Once I got off the bus, all of the traffic my bus encountered for twenty minutes made sense. Crowds of people were around the Heian Shrine vermilion gate to take part in the Intercollegiate Fall Festival. Several different college groups were competing in a variety of dance exhibitions and raising money by selling different food. It was a combination of a dance competion, tail-gate party and local county fair atmosphere. I quickly got the idea of the evenings events and rushed to my Ryokan to check in and head out once again.

After speedily checking in to the Three Sisters Ryokan and setting my bags down, I headed back out to the Festival for a quick bite to eat. Since most booths were charging an inexpensive 200 Yen for a dish, I couldn't help myself by trying several dishes. Besides, it was for charity! A bizarre Japanese version of Mexican, some kind of delicious squash soup, and grilled squid were among the things I tried. There was even a free miso soup stand!

Strolling around and watching several of the groups dance and perform took up most of the afternoon. It was nice to stumble upon a festival that involved a variety of different dancing. Flamenco, jazz, hip-hop, Japanese, and even American style cheerleading were represented. With only two days in Kyoto, I had to get a move on to explore the rest of the city.

Day Four--Ueno & Harajuku

2008-10-21T20:13:00.004+08:00

The next neighborhoods to visit on my whirlwind visit to Tokyo were Ueno and Harajuku. Ueno has a fantastic park and is home to the Tokyo National Museum. Harajuku is where cos-play (costume play) kids come dressed up in outrageous outfits to strut their stuff or just hang out and be seen. There is also a fine temple in Harajuku that seems a world away from the city as it is completely surrounded by a lush green forest.

To be truthful, after all of those dragons, demons, Buddhas, and temples, I needed time in a museum. The Tokyo National Museum in Ueno Park is the museum to visit in Tokyo. It houses an array of historical artifacts like ancient kimonos, samurai armor, ancients Buddhas, and artwork from the Edo period. The museum is part of a larger museum complex and is located in the lush surroundings of Ueno Park. Ueno park is another of Tokyo's parks that is ideal for strolling and great for families to take a break. I was in luck because there was some kind of traveling market and carnival happening at the park. There were dozens of vendors selling different crafts, goods, and a variety of food. My favorite part was taste testing a variety of different fruit, seafood, and green tea.

Since I hadn't yet been to the famed Harajuku district, I decided to meet Cathy there after the museum. Harajuku is known for its colorful cos-play (costume play) kids that parade around in extravagant outfits. This is the flip-side to the black suit and kimono wearing Japan we know and love. The kids were out in full force since it was a weekend and their costumes were bright, colorful, and outlandish. Besides the colorful people parade, Harajuku is also a great shopping district.

With our fill of some of the best people watching in Tokyo, we decided to stop by the shrine nearby the JR Harajuku station. Luckily, we stumbled upon a couple of different weddings in progress. We became wedding crashers for the day and observed what we could of the traditional Shinto wedding ceremonies. The brides were stunning with their white porcelain faces drawing a stark contrast to their black hair. Their wedding dresses had hoods and resembled large white Jedi Knight gowns. There was plenty of silent pomp, regalia, and reverence as the Shinto priest led the bridal party around the grounds of the temple. Family portrait time was glimpse into the rigid decorum that dictates Japanese society. A perfect mixture of kimonos, black suits, and absolutely no smiles. An even greater contrast to the hype and energy just a few blocks away.

Day Three--Nikko

2008-10-17T10:16:00.003+08:00

On Cathy's first full day off we decided to head out to Nikko. I hadn't yet started my JR pass so there was no time like the present to turn in my exchange order for my actual pass. JR passes can only be purchased outside of Japan and can be used within cities and also to travel throughout Japan. Think Eurail pass but with cooler trains! I had purchased the 7 day pass since I was only in Japan for 10 days. I would recover about half of the cost on this trip to Nikko alone. Redeeming the pass can be done at the airport or any major station (like Tokyo Station). I decided to brave the crowds and madness of Tokyo Station to redeem mine. I wish I had known that passes can be redeemed earlier than the first date of use. After that little chore, Cathy and I boarded our Shinkanses train (bullet train) headed for Nikko.

The Shinkanses was sleek and it was the fastest train I've ever been on. After making a brief connection to a local train, we found ourselves a world away from the bright lights of Tokyo. Before long, we were surrounded by lush greenery, bamboo forest, and the quiet atmosphere of the countryside. From the station in Nikko, we opted for a quick bus journey up the hill to the World Heritage Sight Complex which houses all of the different temples we were there to see.

Like any major attraction in Europe in the off-season, Nikko was besieged by schoolchildren on a field trip. They were anxious to practice their English and to get our autographs. I felt more like a rock-star in Nikko than I do back home. The children were also enthusiastic about getting our pictures and for us to photograph them.

We spent most of the day exploring different temples and enjoying the peaceful surroundings of the complex. We had purchased a combo ticket that gave us an all access pass to the variety of temples and some of their exhibits. Nikko is a photographer's dream due to its natural location, exquisite architecture and light. After some time exploring temples, dragons, and even taking part in a ceremony, the sun started to set. We made our way down a long bamboo lined path and eventually down the hill for dinner.

That evening, we dined on Yakisoba (fried soba noodles) at a hip little spot on the main road called Hippido Danko. The food was great and the decor will certainly keep your dinner conversation interesting. On Cathy's suggestion, I had to try some Okonomiyaki. It's essentially a Japanese omelet. We went to a spot that has the customers cook it at the table. Once your food is ordered, they give you a bowl, and you fry it up on the table. Easy, fun, and interesting.
After the quiet train ride home, we were in need of rest. Nikko is a worthwhile trip from Kyoto. It's easy to get "templed" out, so I recommend taking your time and just getting lost in the enchantment of the place.

Tokyo Day Two--Food. Yakitori Lane

2008-10-16T12:24:00.004+08:00

Just around the corner from the Shinjuku station, there is a wonderful little alley that I have dubbed Yakitori Lane. It's really called Omoide-Yokocho (which translates to Memory Lane). Lined with small, narrow, old timey Yakitori joints filled with locals, it's a world away from pushy tourist places that tout "We speak English". As soon as you turn the corner, you'll notice the smoke and steam spilling out onto the alley from all the grills. Typically, the grill and the chef face the street so you can take a peek at what's on the menu. Once inside, you'll likely be the only foreigner. Ordering at a yakitori restaurant is never a problem. Just point to anything that looks good and you'll soon be munching away at a variety of grilled meats and seafood on skewers. Each order typically comes with two skewers and prices start at 400¥. I tried chicken, pork and grilled mackerel. It was a nice change of pace from sushi, soba, and 7-11 snacks. The food is served hot and lightly seasoned with lemon and salt. This little local secret soon became my favorite spot in Tokyo. It is unfortunately going to be demolished to make way for a new development. Get here soon if you are in the Shinjuku area!

Tokyo Day Two--Bright Lights, Big City

2008-10-16T09:30:00.005+08:00

After dark, the Shinjuku area is a neon fantasy land of skyscrapers that has come to typify modern day Tokyo. It was most recently made famous in the movie Lost in Translation. Locals think that Shinjuku's heyday has long come and gone. After all of those temples, I was looking for some bright lights and to seek out those famed pachinko parlors. Also, maybe a quick stop at the Park Hyatt for some views of Tokyo wasn't a bad idea.

I really don't quite understand the pachinko phenomenon but I'll try my best to describe it. A typical parlor is very loud and filled with Japanese men sitting at what looks to be like a slot machine. They pour these steel ball bearings into the machine and the machine makes noise and sounds bells and whistles. Most of them have video screens that tell some kind of story. Only in Japan!

For some great views and a nice classy setting, I highly recommend the Park Hyatt. Prices are steep for the New York bar (on the 52nd floor) and the Lounge on the 41st floor but even if you go for a bird's eye view of the city, it's well worth the 15 minute walk from Shinjuku station. After a whirlwind of neon and crowds, it was time for another food break.

Tokyo Day Two--Sights

2008-10-16T08:38:00.009+08:00

The Senso-ji temple complex in the Asakusa neighborhood of Tokyo was the highlight of the day. The Buddhist complex is a alive with activity from foreigners and locals coming to either photograph or pray. The road leading up to the temple is filled with stands selling any kind of Japanese trinket and souvenir your heart desires. I approached the temple from the side after exiting the Metro stop. It was nice to get lost a little in the local neighborhood before diving into a day of sightseeing. I've noticed the further away you get from Tokyo Station and the Yamanote JR line there is less English and few gaijin (foreigner).

After making my way through the throngs of people at the incense purification bowl, I finally made my way to the main temple. To my surprise, there happened to be a ceremony in progress. The chanting of the head monk and loud constant drumming quieted the active crowd. It didn't stop people from bowing and saying there own prayers in the back segregated tourist area. With my back to the temple, I notice the huge pagoda and large entryway that was lined with red and with lanterns from the main gate.

There happens to be an Edo festival on the side of the temple grounds and going on throughout the month of October. With luck on my side, I happily wandered the temporary Edo village of wooden shacks and shops selling tradition Edo crafts. Edo is the golden age of Japan (1600-1867) when the government moved from Kyoto to Edo (now present day Tokyo). It is the traditional Japan that we westerners think of when we think of and the old Japan depicted in Hollywood movies. The festival was a lot of fun to wander thru and get a glimpse of traditional Japanese crafts and games. Instead popping balloons with darts, they had an archery game with real bows and arrows. Once I had my fill of Edo and a quick stop for sushi, I headed of to the bright lights of Shinjuku.

Tokyo Day One--Onsen

2008-10-15T18:47:00.004+08:00

The Japanese tradition of public baths, known as onsen, is rich and long. If showering down the hall in your hostel or hotel is out of the ordinary, then a Japanese onsen will certainly take you out of your comfort zone. Onsens are typically segregated by sex, but luckily this one had plenty of co-ed areas so I could hang out with my friends.

At the entrance, we were each given a bar-code and locker key to wear around our wrists. We were handed a yukata (traditional bathing robe) and pointed to our perspective locker area. After changing into my yukata I met up with Cathy in the main hall to make an appointment for a spa treatment. The spa treatment of the day involved our feet. A foot massage maybe? No, no, that would be far too normal. The treatment involved flesh eating fish! We were to dip our feet into a pool and have tiny little fish eat the dead skin off our feet. I know it sounds peculiar and truthfully it was an odd experience. The fish just nibble away at your feet and legs for as long as you have them in the pool. Slightly ticklish and more entertaining that relaxing, those little guys sure got the job done. Once our time had expired, the attendant instructed us to get out of the pool and handed us a towel.

From there I headed to the men's area to scrub and wash up before dipping into several different pools. They had a saltwater dip, plumeria pool, green tea pool, steam room, and several other types of bubbly hot water. After some time in the men's area, I put my board shorts on to rendezvous with Cathy in the co-ed section. The complex was a vast variety of different heated pools and spas. My favorite was the adobe steam room with a pool inside of it.

On a balmy autumn Japanese night, there is nothing like soaking your tired body at an onsen. I was lucky because the one I visited had so many amenities. Others may not be as luxurious, but the essence will be the same. The act of cleansing, clearing the mind and body, while reflecting is all part of the process here. Bathing at an onsen is not only unique, but fun and interesting too.

Day One--Food

2008-10-15T08:52:00.001+08:00

The food I ate today was a cross section of the Japanese culinary experience. After constant reminders from Adrian that 7-Eleven's (and AM/PM's) are not the same in Japan and have reasonably priced, good edible food, I decided to muster up the courage and give one a try. I found the "Onigiri" section of stuffed rice balls. I grabbed a couple with a fish symbol on them with and hoped it was salmon. Along with the ubiquitous bottle of green tea and a steamy bun, I was all set for an inexpensive quick and filling lunch. The "Onigiri" was tasty, salty and gave me enough of energy to fuel my legs for a day of sightseeing.

After the TSE, I stumbled upon a noodle shop in the financial district. It was filled with salary men sitting at a counter slurping away at noodles in a hot steamy broth. After pointing to a picture on the wall, the very nice lady came around the counter and instructed me to put some coins in a machine that dispensed a slip of paper. She took the paper and soon my order of Soba and a bowl of rice with some kind of vegetable tempura appeared. For a whopping 450¥ I knew I was getting a great deal. I tried my best to slurp my soba like the salary men, but I just wasn't slurping loud enough. It was a lot of food and I knew soba would be my new standby meal in Japan.

For dinner, I had to have some sushi. We ate across the street from Cathy's apartment in a fantastic little restaurant that has private rooms with sliding paper doors. Shoes are not permitted in the private dinning area and all of the tables are low to the ground. I couldn't have asked for better ambience! After several rounds of different kinds of sushi, miso soup and sake, my heart (and stomach) was content. The best part about this place is that sushi starts at 140¥ a piece. I was shocked at how inexpensive it was and the fantastic quality of the fish. After a great meal with some fantastic company, it was time to wash up at the local Onsen (Japanese style bath).

Tokyo Day One--Sights

2008-10-09T09:07:00.010+08:00

My first full sightseeing day in Tokyo was a busy one. Since I had to take the JR train from where I am staying (the prefecture of Chiba) to Tokyo Station, I decided to begin my day there. I hadn't yet started my JR pass, so I decided to brave Tokyo's vast transportation system of buses, subways, and JR trains with my SUICA card. SUICA cards are pay as you go cards (similar to London's Oyster Card) that even allow you to purchase snacks from vending machines (dangerous).

Since the Imperial Palace Gardens were right outside the station, I couldn't pass it up the opportunity. Besides, I wanted to get a glimpse of the famous red brick facade of the Tokyo Station. To my disappointment, the facade is under renovation. The Palace gardens themselves were a nice low-key start to my trip. It was just what I needed after a 12 hr flight and 1.5 hour train ride to Cathy's apartment from the airport.

From the Palace Gardens, I headed to the financial center to visit the Tokyo Stock Exchange. I know that may not be on most people's Tokyo's Top 10, but with the world's financial markets in turmoil, I couldn't think of a better place to get the pulse of the financial heartbeat of Tokyo. It is also free to visit and there is no better place to get the most up to date exchange rate. After making my way through a sea of salary men, I was in luck when I arrived at the TSE. I was able to book my very own English private tour guide. The US Dollar was not so lucky as it plummeted 6% to the Japanese Yen. I almost fainted on the trading floor (the trading floor is now empty and has been taken over by computers since 1999).

After the TSE, I decided to wrap up my sightseeing day by hopping on the Metro to get a glimpse of the controversial Yasukuni-Jinja Shrine. The Shrine embodies the State Shinto philosophy of the Japanese Government. Politicians make headlines when they visit this shrine on the anniversary of Japan's defeat and unconditional surrender to the United States in WWII. Also, several WWII war criminals are enshrined here. Putting politics aside, it was nearby and I wanted to get a glimpse of my very first Shinto shrine. I was greeting by the huge Tori gate at the entry to a vast green and serene park. In the center was a huge bronze statue of a 19th century War Minister. After observing people of all walks of life, I soon became familiar with proper shrine etiquette. The first step is to cleanse oneself with water by pouring a water over your hands and finally rinsing your mouth out with water. Then quietly approach the shrine, throw a couple of coins in the coffers, say a prayers, bow, then finally clap your hands. After a full day of sightseeing, it was finally time to head home and meet Cathy for a sushi dinner.

Singapore Airlines Review

2008-10-09T08:57:00.002+08:00

Singapore Airlines is the best airline I have ever been on in my life! Don't worry Lufthansa, I still like you for Europe. Singapore takes the cake for comfort, service, amenities and even food. I was upgraded to a bulkhead seat that had a ton of leg room. All of the flight attendants were courteous and attentive. I know it's rare in the airline industry, but they seemed to be enjoying their job. Everyone in coach got a menu for their food and had their own video screen with loads of movies, music, and video games to enjoy on the long flight to Tokyo. I didn't have to pay to check a bag or get any sassy attitude from the check-in attendant at LAX. Getting upgraded was easy and indeed an added bonus. If you are headed to Tokyo or anywhere Singapore flies, I highly recommend them.

Trip Outline

2008-10-09T08:36:00.000+08:00

Here is a rough outline for the trip:

Tokyo: Oct 7-17 with time in Kyoto and Nikko.

Thailand: Oct 17-24. I'm flying in/out of Bangkok. Most of my time will be spent in the North in the Chang Mai area. A trek is on my priority list.

Java, Indonesia: Oct 24-? I'll be in Jakarta for a couple of days with the Sunjaya family. From there I plan to cross the island overland making stops at Yogyjakarta and Solo.

Bali, Indonesia: Oct 29?-Nov 10. I'll be in Bali for my birthday! Most of the time will be spent in the Ubud area but I plan on exploring the whole island. I also would like to go to the Gilli's for some R & R.

I have a crazy schedule coming home! I take 4 fights in 2 days. I'll be back in LA on November 13.

Why travel?

2008-10-09T08:03:00.002+08:00

It is often difficult to explain why I travel so much and why it's important to me. Often, cliche expressions like, "All who wander are not lost." are met with glazed expressions by the general public. My work-aholic friends are busy getting married and planning for the future. Other actors can relate to the gypsy spirit of travel, but often don't have the means or make the time to get away.

Travel is a fundamental part of maturing, learning and an education on life. When I travel, life is heightened and thrills are maximized. In this time of financial (upheaval) concern and 24 hour election coverage, there is no time like the present to re-charge my batteries and gain some perspective on life. Something has to be said about great men (and my heroes) like Winston Churchill, Thomas Jefferson, John Kennedy, Teddy Roosevelt, Goethe, Mozart, St. Paul, etc who traveled far and wide in their lifetime. For some, travel is a romantic pursuit of life. For others, it is simply a chance to relax and get away. For me, it is all of those and so much more! Travel is the ultimate opportunity to be in the moment and taste the diverse flavors of the rich human experience.

Over the years, I've traveled extensively to Europe and Latin America. After 10 years and 19 countries in Europe, my own horizon needs to be broadened and comfort levels challenged. Everyone knows I love Europe, but even Rick Steves goes somewhere else every once in a while. The catalyst of this trip was to visit Cathy in Tokyo. Before long, I realized I couldn't miss South East Asia as well. After much thought, I realized I didn't know much about Asia at all! I'm completely unversed in Buddhism, Shintoism, Hinduism and Islam. I've always heard stories of how cheap Thailand is and how amazing the surf in Indo can be. Most people who have been to Bali are not only inspired but truly fall in love with the place. What is it like traveling to a Muslim country? Why is Thailand called the "land of a thousand smiles"? What is the deal with Harajuku girls, salary men, ninjas and sushi in Japan? Why does my friend Adrian love Japan so much? These questions and many more needed to be answered. The only way to do that is by traveling.